My car is a 2010 classic Focus. The original headlights are halogen for both high and low beams. When I drive it at night, it's like running with two candles. The appearance and interior are very outdated. Before the change, I did a lot of homework online to see how other people had changed it. After studying it, I determined my own lighting change plan. I would also like to thank the experts on the Internet!
1. Determine the light modification plan: Each car headlight style configuration has certain differences, which are roughly integrated high and low beams and separate high and low beams. My little blessing is the high and low beam split headlights
Most people change the low beam to a bifocal lens, which will become 2 near and 4 far, and keep the original car's 2 halogen high beams. The penetration will be better in rainy and foggy days! After comparison, this modified lamp has the best cost performance and effect! If it is an integrated high and low beam light, it is simple. Just change it to a bifocal lens and it will be OK!
2. Material procurement: This is my first DIY lamp modification. In addition to the main materials such as lenses, xenon bulbs, and ballasts, I also need to purchase a set of lamp modification tools. They are basically necessary materials and tools. I chose a pair of used car parts from Hella 5 in 2015. They are known as the king of lenses. The bulbs are brand new Hanley 45W5800 white light and supporting stabilizers. The seller sent a matching wiring harness, hood and a plate of snake glue.
I bought a bunch of lamp modification tools, including electric drills, electric grinders, heat guns, lamp removal gadgets, cold glue lamp removal fluid, heat shrink tubing, sealant, etc.! To make a living, you must have all the tools. I went there with the goal of earning a set of tools after finishing the modification!
3. Disassemble the headlight: The first difficulty in changing the lamp is to disassemble the headlight shell. The original car lamp is sealed by a cold glue machine. A professional oven can adjust the temperature and put it in to bake. I bought a heat gun myself specifically for removing the lamp cover ( Use a hot air gun), this can be done boldly if the temperature is too low and it is difficult to disassemble. At this time, you need to use cold glue lamp removal fluid, which still has a certain effect, especially when cleaning the glue strips, it will be cleaner and remove the lampshade. , clean up the remaining sealant and set aside.
4. Installing lenses: This is the core technology of changing the headlights! To install and fix the lens to the reflector bowl, it is very important to position it first. Most people use a positioning bracket to position it and then drill holes (using an electric drill). I listened to the advice of the seller of Two Knives and fixed it directly. Mark the positioning of the screws and then drill holes. It turns out that the deviation is very large, and a lot of adjustments need to be made later. Players who are inexperienced in changing lamps should buy a positioning bracket. Set the position and then use an electric grinder to cut off the excess part of the lamp bowl and install the lens in position. Adjust the angle and direction. Adjust the approximate angle here. Later, after getting in the car, you can use the height and left and right adjustment knobs that come with the headlights to make fine adjustments.
5. Line connection installation test: First, the xenon bulb power supply is connected to the original car's low beam power supply (it will not light up if the positive and negative poles are reversed), and the lens dimming light group is connected to the high beam power supply. I tested it and found that the dimming light group is not positive. Just connect it negatively, so that all the wiring is connected inside the headlight, then connect the power supply to test whether the high and low beams are normal. The Hella lens test is really blinding!
6. Preliminary debugging of lighting: This should be the second core technology of modification! Before sealing the headlights, be sure to install the bottom shell and get on the car for preliminary debugging. There should not be too much deviation in the height, left, and right. I lacked experience in changing the lights for the first time, and the positioning and opening of the lamp bowl was not accurate. The installation deviation was very large and it took a lot of time in the later stage. Make adjustments. If the deviation is too large, the fine-tuning knob cannot be adjusted back when the light is turned off, so you must pay attention to debugging when you get on the car!
7. Sealing the lamp and installing it on the car: After getting on the car and debugging, there are no problems. Now we are ready to seal the lamp and install the lamp housing. At this time, the snake glue comes in handy. The snake glue is a soft glue that can seal 2 lamps. After spreading the snake glue in the groove, use a hot air gun to heat the snake glue to soften it. Then secure the lamp housing and clean up the excess glue. Reinforce and tie the outside with external force. Leave it overnight and you can load it into the car. The back cover is waterproof. The opening and wiring are sealed with silicone sealant. The ballast can be fixed under the headlight with sealant. Install the wiring in the car and then use the fine-tuning knob to fine-tune the light until you are satisfied!
In addition, there are 2 types of lens hoods, one with angel eye mounting holes and one bare, just choose according to your personal needs! Below is the lighting test effect! I hope this can provide some reference and help to the lighting modification enthusiasts in the future. Thanks for coming!
